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The dozens of bustling people and the swirling dust make it hard to see very far down the main street that runs through Zaatari, the largest Syrian refugee camp in Jordan.
“Not for sale” read the sides of the boxes, but here on the street their contents are spilled out, sorted, and sold. Young boys push wheelbarrows full of things they have purchased or things they have received from the UN. They call it the Champs-Élysées, this street full of shops and people, this marketplace where thousands of displaced Syrian refugees strive for a bit of normalcy by selling goods, bartering, and chatting with neighbors.
There is a mechanic shop where men are welding and tinkering. The reproductive health clinic stands just off of this street. ” she shouts, waving her arms wildly back and forth. One serves as a makeshift waiting room for the dozens of women waiting to be seen.
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As the giggling continues, she unwraps a condom and demonstrates its use.
They promise to go home and explain it all to their husbands.
These little shop stalls display plastic-mannequin heads modeling hijabs, piles of fly-covered vegetables and stacks and stacks of World Food Program boxes.
“Sometimes they tell me they feel like my children, but sometimes they are very angry with me because I cannot give them what they want.
It is very hard work.”I hear tenderness in her voice as she speaks of the refugees.
Sometimes the tenderness turns to anger when the women cluster around her door, fighting to be seen first.
Or when they peek through the windows as she examines a patient.“It cannot be this way,” she says.
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They also serve as an identification card, made necessary by the fact that many refugees have lost official documentation in the chaos leaving Syria and entering Jordan.